In her new book, The Quickening, Elizabeth Rush describes an incredible adventure to one of the world’s most crucial and least explored locations.
In 2019, Rush joined a group of 57 scientists and crew members on a 54-day expedition to Antarctica. Their mission was to study Thwaites Glacier, a huge ice block the size of Britain, which is melting rapidly. This glacier is so significant that it has earned the nickname “doomsday glacier.”
Thwaites Glacier is melting eight times faster than it did in the 1990s, sending 80 billion tonnes of ice into the ocean every year. It is responsible for about 4% of the global rise in sea levels. If Thwaites were to completely melt, it could cause sea levels to rise by 10 feet or more, leading to serious global consequences.
Recent research suggests that Thwaites Glacier might not be melting as quickly as previously thought, but it is still shrinking rapidly. The new study indicates that the glacier might not collapse into the ocean as soon as feared, offering a somewhat less grim outlook, though the situation remains serious.
Rush’s latest book, The Quickening, tells the story of this historic journey to the edge of Thwaites Glacier, a remote and icy place that had never been visited by humans before.
Elizabeth Rush recently spoke with BBC Travel about her incredible journey to Antarctica, how it changed her view of the world, and the ethics of visiting delicate places on Earth.
Where is Thwaites Glacier and how did you find out about this expedition?
Thwaites Glacier is located in a remote part of Antarctica, in the Amundsen Sea. Getting to it took a four-day journey from the nearest research base. When Rush joined the mission, her program officer warned her that it was easier to get help to astronauts on the space station than to their team if they ran into trouble. There was a lot of concern because Thwaites Glacier was believed to be rapidly collapsing, yet no one had ever been to the edge of the glacier where the ice breaks off.
Rush applied to join the expedition through the Antarctic Artists & Writers Program, which sends two artists or writers to Antarctica each year. She submitted a detailed 60-page application and mentioned that she writes about sea level rise and wanted to see it firsthand in Antarctica. She was fortunate to secure a spot on the ice-breaking ship for the mission.
What would be the global effects if sea levels rose by 10 feet or more?
The speed of the sea level rise is crucial. A rise of 10 feet over two centuries is very different from a rise of 10 feet over just 40 years. The main concern is how people will respond to such changes.
Rush supports the idea of “managed retreat,” where governments buy up homes in flood-prone areas before they are affected by flooding. This approach allows people to sell their homes before they lose value and use the money to move to safer areas.
For example, New York City has used managed retreat on Staten Island, where the state bought and demolished over 500 homes. About 80% of the former residents were able to use the money to move within Staten Island. Managed retreat does not necessarily break up communities, and can help people adapt to rising sea levels.
Why do you think you were chosen for this expedition?
In my application, I wrote that I would create a book using my own perspective as the main narrative but also include the voices of scientists and other crew members. My goal was to offer a more inclusive and varied view of Antarctica, moving away from the typical stories of human conquest, often told from the perspective of white men from the global north. I wanted to highlight the diverse experiences and contributions of everyone involved, from the cooks to the engineers, to provide a richer, more democratic story about Antarctica.
Are there any stories from the voyage that stand out to you about how the trip changed the way people see the world?
One story that sticks with me is about Jack, a cook from New Orleans. He joined the expedition to help support his grandfather financially, but his grandfather passed away just before we left. Jack had never flown before and had to take three different flights to reach our departure point in Chile. He had also never been on a ship or seen penguins before.
Despite coming from New Orleans, where sea level rise is a real concern, he hadn’t thought much about it before this trip. When Jack saw the massive Thwaites Glacier, it was like a scene from “Game of Thrones”—so enormous and imposing. The experience of seeing such a huge and remote glacier made him understand the impact of climate change in a way he hadn’t before. It was a powerful reminder of how our actions, even from far away, can have dramatic effects on such distant and fragile places.
There’s a debate about whether we should visit certain delicate places on Earth. Some people believe we should leave these hard-to-reach, fragile ecosystems alone, while others think that seeing their fragility up close makes people care more about them. What places, if any, do you think we shouldn’t visit?
This is a tough question and my answer is personal. When I returned from Antarctica, I knew I would never go back. I saw my trip as a one-time opportunity to deeply understand and write a book about it. Without this meaningful purpose, I wouldn’t feel right visiting such a fragile place.
For casual tourism, I strongly believe that places like Antarctica should be avoided. I don’t think cruise ships should go there, and I don’t think we should encourage tourism to places that seem “untouched” or remote. However, I also struggle with the idea of what counts as “untouched.” Places like Antarctica and the Amazon are already influenced by human activity, even if we like to think of them as pristine.
Seeing these places can indeed make us care more about them. But as I get older, I try to focus on appreciating the natural wonders closer to home. For example, I enjoy exploring my neighborhood with my child and noticing the beautiful plants and small ecosystems around us. We can appreciate and care for local environments with the same wonder and respect as we do for faraway places like Antarctica or the Amazon.
What are some things anyone taking a trip to Antarctica should know?
Antarctica is a unique and powerful place. It was only discovered just over 200 years ago, and it is the only continent without thousands of years of indigenous history. This means it’s a place with its own special qualities and it deserves a lot of respect.
If you’re planning to visit, remember that it’s an extraordinary experience. Understanding how rare and significant your visit is will help you appreciate the power and uniqueness of Antarctica.
How did seeing this massive glacier slowly melt away affect you?
When we first arrived at Thwaites Glacier, the weather was calm and our captain took us on a tour along the front of the glacier. It was an amazing experience. After that, we worked hard every day for six days. We collected sediment samples from the ocean floor, tagged elephant seals, and sent submarines to explore under the glacier. Each day, the ice changed in appearance.
On the seventh day, I noticed there were more icebergs than before, but I didn’t think much of it at the time. After lunch, the chief scientist looked at two satellite images of the glacier. The first image showed Thwaites as a solid ice sheet, but the second image, taken just days later, showed the glacier broken into hundreds of icebergs. The glacier had rapidly collapsed, creating a large area of floating icebergs. The chief scientist realized that the glacier was falling apart much faster than expected. The decision was made to leave the area immediately for safety reasons.
How did witnessing the glacier’s collapse impact you?
I was shocked to realize how huge and overwhelming the collapse of the glacier was. It was so massive that I could have missed it happening right before my eyes, which was humbling. If such a big event can go unnoticed, it shows how much larger and more complex the issue of climate change is than we might think. This experience really highlighted how hard it is for people to fully grasp the scale of climate change.
How does visiting the farthest reaches of the Earth change your view of humanity?
Visiting such an alien and remote place made me feel how special and extraordinary our own planet is. It felt almost like stepping onto another planet, and it made me realize how difficult it would be to survive on one. This experience made me appreciate Earth even more and understand that what happens in Antarctica affects the whole planet. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current, which moves around Antarctica, influences global ocean patterns. Changes in this current can impact ocean systems worldwide. Spending time in Antarctica deepened my sense of how interconnected all ecosystems are.
After this project, how do you feel about the future?
Having a child was a way for me to show hope for the future. Now that my child is here, I realize that the challenges we face might be more severe than I initially thought. This makes me even more determined to make a positive impact during my lifetime. I also want to teach my child how to handle tough situations and adapt to big changes. It’s important for him to learn how to work well with others and build supportive relationships. As he grows, I hope he will be resilient and also be part of a community that looks out for each other.
